Davidson Metallic Epoxy
Robert got into this trade by building a bar and coating it himself, and metallic is still the work closest to where he started. Around Davidson we pour it in basements, home bars, studios and showrooms, the rooms where a floor is meant to be looked at. Each pour moves on its own, so no two floors come out alike.
Call (704) 775-1120 Ask About a Metallic FloorRooms Where a Metallic Floor Earns Its Place
A finished basement is the most common home for metallic epoxy in a Davidson house. The slab is already indoors and out of the sun, nobody drives on it, and the room is often short on windows, so a floor that catches and moves the light does a lot of work. A deep charcoal with silver drifting through it can make a low ceiling feel taller. A warm bronze gives a media room a finished look without wall-to-wall carpet.
Home bars are where this company began. Robert built one, coated it himself, and that project turned into the business. A bar floor in metallic gets the same care we would give a showroom: a flat base, a careful pour, and a clear top coat that shrugs off spilled drinks. Studios and home offices get metallic too, usually in quieter colors, because people spend whole working days looking down at them.
Small showrooms and front-of-house retail use metallic when the floor is part of what they are selling. A working garage is the room we steer people away from, or at least talk through carefully. Grit from tires, dragged tools and warm rubber all mark a high-gloss surface, and on a metallic floor every scratch catches the light. If you still want metallic in the garage, we build it with a heavier top coat and tell you plainly how it will look after a few winters of use.
Call (704) 775-1120 or describe the room you have in mind. Robert will come look at the slab, take moisture readings, and talk color with you standing in the space itself.
Getting the Slab Flat Before Any Color Goes Down
Why Metallic Shows Everything
A flake floor hides a dip or an old patch under thousands of chips. Metallic does the reverse. The pigment flows toward low spots and pools there, and a ridge or crack shows straight through the finish. So the slab gets more attention before a metallic pour than before any other system we install.
Diamond Grinding
We grind the whole floor to open the concrete and remove sealer, paint and carpet adhesive left from earlier finishes. In a basement that has had a few lives, this is when we learn what was hiding under the last floor covering and whether the slab needs more than we planned.
Filling and Patching
Cracks, pits, anchor holes and old plumbing cuts get filled and ground flush with the surrounding concrete. Anything left proud or sunken will show up in the metallic layer, so every patch gets checked by eye and by hand before primer goes on.
Flatness Checks
A straightedge goes across the room in several directions. Where the floor rolls or dips, a skim coat or a self-leveling layer brings it back to a surface the metallic resin can flow across evenly, instead of collecting in the low corner.
Moisture Readings
Basements are where slab moisture matters most, because the concrete sits against soil on more than one side. The readings decide whether a moisture-mitigating primer goes down first. Skipping that step is how a beautiful floor ends up with blisters a season later.
The Tinted Base
A solid tinted base coat goes down before the metallic. Its color sets the depth of the finished floor. A dark base makes silver and pearl tones look deeper, and a lighter base keeps a warm copper or champagne palette bright.
Choosing Colors and Directing the Pour
In an older Davidson home, the floors that look best tend to be restrained: charcoal with pewter movement, deep brown with copper drift, soft gray with a pearl sheen. Those sit comfortably beside plaster, wood trim and brick, where a swirl of turquoise and gold would fight the house. Bold pours have their place, mostly in bars, game rooms and showrooms where the floor is supposed to start a conversation. We bring samples and talk it through in the room under its own light, since a metallic floor looks quite different in morning daylight than it does under evening lamps.
The pour itself goes quickly. Metallic pigment is mixed into clear epoxy and laid down in ribbons, then worked with rollers, trowels and brushes while the resin is still moving. Robert decides where the movement runs: down the length of the room, around the base of a bar, toward the light from a window. Some of the effect comes from what we do, and some comes from the resin settling as it levels. That is why no two floors match, and why we never promise an exact copy of a photo you saved.
On pour day the room has to stay still. We ask that the air vents in the room be closed or covered so dust does not drift down into the wet resin, that pets stay elsewhere, and that nobody opens the door for a peek until Robert says the surface has skinned over. Dust and stray hair are what spoil a glossy floor, and one curious visitor can leave a mark that lasts as long as the coating does.
Over the metallic layer goes a clear protective top coat. It takes the scuffs, the grit and the chair traffic so the metallic underneath does not, and it sets the final sheen. High gloss shows the most depth. A satin finish hides fine scratches better and suits a basement that gets heavy everyday use from kids, pets or a pool table.
One honest limit: a metallic floor is hard to patch invisibly. Because the pattern came from a single pour, a gouge repaired years later will not blend the way a flake repair can. Most damage only reaches the top coat, which can be sanded and recoated, and that is another reason we lean on a thick wear layer. If a deep gouge ever reaches the color, Robert will explain what a repair can and cannot hide before any work starts.
Living with the floor is simple. A dust mop does most of the work, because grit under shoes is what slowly dulls a top coat. Put felt pads on chair and table feet. Pick rugs without a rubber backing, which can mark some coatings over time. Lift heavy furniture when you move it, and the floor will keep looking the way it did the day the top coat cured.
Metallic Floor Questions We Hear in Davidson
Can I put a metallic epoxy floor in my garage?
You can, though it is rarely our first suggestion. Tires, grit and dragged tools leave marks that show plainly on a glossy metallic surface. If the garage is mostly a showpiece or a hobby space, it can work well with a heavier top coat. For a daily driver, flake is the more forgiving floor.
Will my floor look like the pictures I’ve saved?
It will share the colors and the general movement, never the exact pattern. Metallic resin keeps shifting as it levels, so every floor is its own. Bring your saved photos to the walkthrough and Robert will tell you which parts he can steer and which parts the resin decides.
Why does the slab need so much work before a metallic pour?
Metallic pigment settles into low spots and shows every ridge, crack and old patch. A flake system covers those flaws, while metallic puts them on display. Grinding, patching and leveling come first so the finished floor shows the pour by itself.
What colors work in an older Davidson home?
Quieter combinations usually sit best with original trim, plaster and brick: charcoal with pewter, brown with copper, gray with pearl. Bolder colors suit bars, game rooms and showrooms. We look at samples in your room, because daylight and lamplight change a metallic floor a lot.
How do I clean a metallic epoxy floor?
Dust mop it often, since grit is what wears down the sheen. For a deeper clean, use warm water and a pH-neutral cleaner with a soft mop. Skip harsh solvents and abrasive pads, and wipe spills when you see them.
Will rugs or furniture damage the floor?
Felt pads under chair and table legs prevent most scratches. Rugs with rubber or latex backing can discolor some coatings, so choose a backing made for finished floors. When moving heavy pieces, lift them or slide them on a blanket, because dragging is what scores a top coat.
How long does a metallic floor take to install?
Longer than a flake garage. Grinding, patching and primer come first, then the base coat, the metallic pour and the top coat, and each layer needs to cure before the next goes on. Robert lays out the full schedule in the written quote, including when you can walk on it and when furniture can go back.
Browse Our Finished Floors First
The gallery covers projects from across the Charlotte metro. Save the ones that catch your eye and show them to Robert at the walkthrough.